Our footsteps through undulating forests whispered hints of adventure as our small band of wanderers delved into southwest Ethiopia’s tropical woodlands on a modern-day pilgrimage. We followed the leafy trail of Coffea arabica, humanity’s most prized stimulant, to its ancestral homeland – a hallowed realm that has nourished the world with the gift of coffee for over 1,000 years. 

These forests in the land of the Oromo hold magic; not the fanciful magic of fantasy, but real magic that has allowed an inconspicuous understory shrub to become a global phenomenon. This trip promised to reveal some of the mystical secrets that allowed wild coffee growing beneath canopy trees to launch empires, shape vast fortunes, and addict millions.

Our route wove through the Illu Abba Bora region, where age-old coffee cultivation perseveres on small family-run farms. Hillsides bear tidy rows of coffee shrubs interspersed with banana and incense trees. We spoke at length with producer Kattaa Mudugaa, one of thousands of farmers whose work has permitted beloved local coffee varietals to remain viable. This diversity is conserved in Illu Abba Bora’s genetic bank, which has cataloged a staggering 4,631 unique coffee varietals to date. 

Beyond coffee, we paid homage to another agricultural treasure at the emerald tea fields of Gumero. Rows of Camellia sinensis unfolded across hillsides like giant green quilts stitched into the landscape. Seeing such bounty, one understands why coffee and tea have become central pillars of Ethiopian culture.

Our route linking historic Jimma, Buno Bedele, Metu and modern-day Gora immersed us in incredibly diverse landscapes that revealed as much about Oromo culture as coffee itself. We stood awestruck at the hidden Seka waterfalls, where legend says water nymphs still linger. Local guides led us down jungle trails to primeval Sor Falls, its frothy white cascade shattering the verdant silence. At night we sipped honey wine, breaking homemade bread as starlight flickered through forest boughs.

This journey also bore witness to the complex forces that have shaped Ethiopia’s cultural tapestry. Sites like the ruined Kingdom of Jimma and the town of Goré – which briefly served as Ethiopia’s 19th century capital – reflect the nation’s rich but complicated history. Relics like the decaying British Consulate at Gore are sobering reminders of the colonial era’s dark shadow. 

But what will linger most in memory are the kind people met along the way. Local authorities and guides welcomed us; their hospitality revealing the Oromo reputation for warmth. In particular, individuals like Najibe, Ababiya, Temesgen, Wundemu, Nurdin and Aziza illuminated our path with insight. Their passion for sharing Oromo heritage was inspiring.

So as our stay comes to a close, we depart with profound gratitude, our minds perfumed by memories of verdant nature, steaming coffee ceremonies and spirited people. This trip has brewed new perspective; its pleasures will continue rippling through the years to come.